Jodhpur: The Blue City
Jodhpur: Sun City
Jodhpur is the second largest city in Rajasthan and is often called the “Blue City” because most of the houses are painted blue. The color blue is traditionally said to signify that the inhabitants belong to the high caste of Brahmins. In fact, the blue is created by adding copper sulfate to white whitewash and is mainly used to protect the buildings against termites. The city is clearly divided into two parts, the old and the new city. The old city is surrounded by a 10 km long wall and can be reached through 8 gates. The new city was formed outside the city walls. It was the Rathore warriors, one of the leading Rajput clans, who ruled Rajasthan, the land of kings, for more than 1000 years. Their kingdom, here on the edge of the Thar Desert, was then as now called Marwar (literally, “The Land of Death”). In 1459, Rao Jodha, the 15th ruler of Marwar, had the construction of the Mehrangarh Fort begun and thus founded his new capital, Jodhpur – Jodha’s city, named after him. Marwar’s old capital, Mandore, was abandoned in favor of Jodhpur. During the 16th century, the city developed into a thriving trading center for timber, camels, salt, and agricultural products, but owed its wealth and rapid growth mainly to the trade in opium, sandalwood, and copper.
Mehrangarh Fort: The majestic fort
The Mehrangarh Fort is not only one of the largest forts in Rajasthan, but is especially impressive because of its unique location on a steep, 150 meter high cliff in the middle of the city. The massive, 125 meter high walls quickly make it clear to every visitor why the fort could never be taken by conquerors in 500 years, even though there were numerous attempts and long sieges. Each of the seven fort gates to be crossed during the steep, serpentine ascent to the palace bears traces of the glorious and sometimes bloody history of the House of Marwar. The second gate, called Ded Kangra Pol, has some cannon impacts where troops unsuccessfully tried to capture the fort in the early 19th century. Next to another gate, the Loha Pol, 31 red handprints decorated with flowers remind us that the widows of Maharaja Man Singh committed sati upon his death in 1843. In this type of suicide, which was quite common at the time, the widows had themselves burned on the funeral pyre together with the husband’s body. Behind the last gate, the mighty Sun Gate (Suraj Pole), are the palace grounds, which today house the Mehrangarh Museum, and a large terrace to the east of the palace with beautiful views of the city. Much of the palace itself is made of red sandstone, and the many graceful balconies, lattice windows, and wall surfaces are carved in fine detail. The palace’s suite of rooms have very significant names: Pearl Palace (Moti Mahal), Mirror Palace (Sheesh Mahal) and Flower Palace (Phool Mahal). The flower palace is the most extravagant. The depictions of dancers, deities and rulers on the walls and wooden ceilings are ornately decorated with gold leaf. Other chambers have sandalwood ceilings, mirrored walls and richly decorated archways. The rooms also contain a very good collection of objects of daily life of an Indian royal family (including children’s cradles, robes, musical instruments, antique furniture and jewelry), as well as a collection of weapons, magnificent elephant saddles and palanquins.
Umaid Bhawan Palace: A Luxury Palace
Located in the south of the city, Umaid Bhawan Palace was not completed until 1944, making it the last large palace built in India. It is still the residence of the Maharaja of Jodhpur, Gaj Singh II, and his family, who, however, shares the building with a 5-star hotel and a small museum. Architecturally, the palace is a wild and ostentatious blend of East and West, and the rooms inside are entirely Art Deco.
Old City A visit to the lively and colorful old town of Jodhpur is also worthwhile. The market is a good place to buy spices, and some of the alleys are so narrow that you can’t walk side by side. As almost everywhere in India, the different types of craftsmen have always settled together in one alley. During a stroll through the old town, you can still admire various old crafts from close up.